1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL

All Princess models specific items.
Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 28/02 Snow

Post by Vulgalour » Thu Mar 01, 2018 1:31 pm

Had a little bit of thundersnow last night and a few more inches of snowfall. I like how quiet everything is, all that irritating background noise of other people doing things and the constant buzz of traffic gone. All the other little noises muffled away by a blanket of chilly white stuff. Fine for me in my nice toasty house, not so much for the homeless, of course.
Image20180301-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180301-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180301-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Nearly 8" of snow now and we're forecast for more.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 01/03 More Snow

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Mar 07, 2018 5:38 pm

Today has been parcel day and in some of those parcels were things for the Princess. First to arrive was another nodding tiger. Long term readers will remember the one I repainted after the sun through the back window destroyed the flocking on it. The sun through the back window has destroyed the paint on it too! I think I'm going to get a super light UV tint of some sort on the back window, I can't be having that. Anyway, I'm now the owner of two lumpen nodding tigers, but they shan't be going back in the car until I do something about that back window.
Image20180307-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180307-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180307-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Next to arrive was the speedo cable, this time one still in its original packaging and with all the protective caps intact, something I've not seen before with one of these items. It literally is as new. The listing I bought it from even showed a cross reference for the part so I could confirm it was definitely for my car so I was fairly confident it would fit.
Image20180307-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180307-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180307-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Unlike the cable on the car - itself a replacement to the one that was on the car when I bought it - the end of this new one has a plastic reducer rather than just ending in a metal piece.
Image20180307-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

There were a few discrepancies between the two cables. The new cable is slightly longer, has a slightly different casting on the gearbox end screw, has a slightly different profile to the drive at the gearbox end, has a larger gromit (that actually fits the hole in the bulkhead), and has a plastic reducer piece at the speedo end. That said, it does fit perfectly fine and was actually much easier to located in the binnacle since I actually had a bit of cable to use.
Image20180307-15 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

A quick test drive shows that it works perfectly fine. I also found out why the other brake light was out, which is simply that the bulb had somehow fallen out of the holder so I put it back in where it belongs. The other thing to arrive today is the new downpipe. It is pristine, with undamaged flanges, straight downpipes, an intact gearbox stay bracket and a flexi joint that actually flexes about! I'm really hoping this resolves the exhaust issue.
Image20180307-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180307-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180307-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Other thing I checked when I got home was for any oil spots under the car and there just isn't anything at all. I find this incredibly strange. Removing the old speedo cable and fitting the new one also didn't end up with me covered in oily sludge. All very odd.

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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 07/03 Fixing Stuff

Post by Gasman » Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:02 pm

I've been thinking of something to say about parcel 1. I'll leave it that it's very Vulgalour.

As for the lack of oil leaks it's quite clear you've forgotten to put any oil in the engine... Whatever, that's a great job to have it oil free underneath. Wish I could say the same of mine.
Martin
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Owner of:
Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 07/03 Fixing Stuff

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:43 pm

The tigers are horrible. I love them :lol:

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 07/03 Fixing Stuff

Post by Vulgalour » Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:33 pm

I probably shouldn't have tried to do the exhaust today, I'm not quite over this cold so lots of fun coughing fits were had and Mike ended up doing rather more of the job than was perhaps fair as a result. Also, I forgot my camera, so was relying on my phone which isn't that good. Anyway, enough of me whinging, what did we do? Old exhaust off and after rather a lot of effort, the single slip joint was split so we could compare old and new downpipe sections. Happily they are both the same. Offering up the new one for dry-fitting and it pretty much fell exactly into place, a far cry from what we were dealing with before!

Rejoining the two halves of the exhaust proved rather more difficult since both halves are aftermarket and the central slip joint required about an inch taking off the new pipe so the join would actually sit in the correct place. You do expect this sort of thing when you're mixing and matching parts, so it wasn't too much grief. As it happens, the front manifold joints that also used to be impossible to seal actually sealed really easily. It was as if the parts I had were actually supposed to fit together! Clamps tightened and minimal exhaust paste used just in case. It was not a chore to align, this was very strange.

Mike spent some time making a new stay bracket from the one I'd fashioned some time ago for the old exhaust since all that was left of the car's original was this.
Image20180308-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

That's supposed to be a bent shape so it can clamp to the C clamp the exhaust came with. Our bracket is a little crude but it works, it should also help prevent the manifold joint from splitting, especially in combination with the better flexi this pipe has.
Image20180308-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With everything on and double checked under there it was time to start the car. I did find an oil leak, though very minor, which is from the end of the oil pressure switch I suspected was leaking. We suspect there might be another minor leak somewhere, but it was hard to tell if it was wicking back from the oil pressure switch or creeping along the water splashed up from driving on wet roads. I'll replace the switch and then we'll know for definite. Also, I'd forgotten a new clip was fitted to the CV boot that I thought had one missing, so that's one less job to worry about.
Image20180308-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Set the car back on the ground, started it up and... it's quiet. It's *really* quiet. It's never been this quiet all the years I've owned it. The exhaust rattle is now gone too, still not sure what that was knocking on but I'm glad it's not now. On the drive home the speedo packed in again, which was a little odd. I could hear it clicking against something as I was driving though so when I got home I checked and it looks like I hadn't quite clicked it home on the speedo properly, once unplugged and plugged back in again, it's working normally.

Princess is now in better health than at the last MoT. That gives me the warm fuzzies. Providing I get a pass at test time (and I don't see why I won't), I should just have those tiny bits of welding to things like the door bottoms to do and paintwork now. This is where I've wanted to be with this car for ages, it feels good.

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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 08/03 It's oh so quiet

Post by Gasman » Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:29 pm

That's great progress. It's very satisfying when you start with a noisy exhaust and end up with silence.

Have you commissioned Mike to do the electrics on the Tiger to make the eyes light up when you brake.... Surely a must.
Martin
Club Treasurer


Owner of:
Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 08/03 It's oh so quiet

Post by Vulgalour » Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:43 pm

I have not... you're not the first to suggest this madness. :lol:

It is raining and miserable here and the school run time so it's the perfect time to take the Princess out so I can get something supplies. I'm 99% sure the occasional chuntering is stale fuel, with a few miles on fresh fuel, the chuntering has pretty much stopped even on a damp day like today. Earthing problem definitely resolved for I had all the things on and the throttle cable stayed nice and cool. Mirrors are less than great in these conditions, but not terrible now I've almost got them set where they need to be. It is a little too easy to speed now that the car is so quiet, my usual audio reference points have all gone and the interior fan motor drowns out any potential references I might have, being the loudest thing in the cabin. Do have to drive with the driver's window cracked open a little because of the leaking windscreen seal but the aerodynamics of the car are such that I don' t get wet and it isn't uncomfortable.

Long and short of it is today has given me another confidence boost with the car. If it can handle with stop-start traffic and miserable weather without embarrassing me, then it's probably fine.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 12/03 Use It Every Day

Post by Vulgalour » Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:03 pm

Little job done today. After the throttle cable wanted to be an earth strap it still worked, but wasn't exactly the smoothest operation. To remove the cable you have to pull the cable out of the sheath so you can unclip it from the pedal, it's a bit wierd but fairly easy once you know how it works. The old cable had warped a bit, presumably from the heat of serving as an earth cable, and wasn't particularly bendy.
Image20180313-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

New one fitted, cable adjusted properly at the carburettor end and smooth accelerator restored.
Image20180313-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 12/03 Use It Every Day

Post by Vulgalour » Tue Mar 20, 2018 7:13 pm

Let's fix an oil leak today. I know Princesses are supposed to have oil leaks as part of their total loss oil rust prevention system, but I've swapped that out for underseal and welding on this car which seems to be working better for me so far.

In all seriousness, the only oil leak I was aware of since doing the big clutch work and selector rod seals was from the spade connector end of the oil pressure switch. I'd bought a replacement switch online for a mere £4.44 delivered, it's a fairly common part on a lot of vehicles, it seems. If you want to make life easier, remove the belts from the engine first. I find this isn't necessary if you're careful and you can thread a 14mm open ended spanner into the gap to get to the adaptor that screws into the oil filter housing thing.
Image20180320-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With patience, it unscrews and then you can remove the adaptor with the sender still in it. Be sure to disconnect from the loom at the other end, of course. You will find the oil in the filter comes out when you do this which is unavoidable because of the way things are designed. The oil hasn't been in very long and is already looking quite dark so I'll be doing another oil change later this year I suspect.
Image20180320-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With the adaptor removed, pop it in a vice to make the next bit easier. I actually find it easier to do this way rather than trying to hold the adaptor on the car and unscrew the sender from it because of access. The sender is a 24mm spanner job. Here I've already fitted the new one, with the old one resting in the vice gap since the thread is thinner than the adaptor, obviously.
Image20180320-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Refitting the adaptor is quite fiddly but providing you take care and don't force anything, you're not going to risk damaging any threads. I cleaned off the spilled oil with some degreaser and did the errands for the day, including sticking some fuel in. I was surprised to see I've done over 50 miles since the last fuel up, I really didn't think I'd done that much running about over the last few days. On getting home I had a look and there are no oil leaks. The wetness here is water, rather than oil.
Image20180320-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180320-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I'm happy with that. The new switch works too, which I was sure to check, and I've kept the old one in a labelled box, in case of emergencies. Perhaps a little superstition too, since I'm convinced that every time I dispose of something functional but less than perfect I end up needing it and cannot get one.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 20/03 Oil Leak Fix

Post by Vulgalour » Sat Mar 24, 2018 7:26 pm

Oh no, FTP!

Pulling into the unit I lost power as if I was in the wrong gear, it was very odd, and on pulling into the yard the car just DIED. After it being so good for the last couple of weeks this was both mortifying and completely expected! Popped the bonnet, had a look, and whenever you had it idling there would be fuel pouring out of the carb overfuel until it just... died. Some application of a hammer to the carb got it to stop overflowing for a bit but it would quickly start again. I just wanted to get it into the unit to pull apart suspected culprits and we made it with hammers and patience, having to push the last foot or so because it wouldn't even idle. At least the car had the good grace to die at the unit which I was where pre-MoT stuff was being checked since it's the only day I have free until the MoT now.

That cause? Collapsed fuel filter. This filter hadn't looked too bad last time I'd looked under the bonnet and certainly hadn't caused issues so it wasn't on my priority list for jobs to do. Bought the last one in stock at the local motorfactors and replacement of that was nice and straightforward.
Image20180324-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

On removing the carburettor, it was clear that it the float needle was stuck and the bowl was full of orangey sediment from the filter itself. This was confirmed when refitting everything and running the car showed the new filter to be lovely and clear and free of any sediment at all, so it's most likely not a fuel tank issue. Took a little while to clean the carburettor out and the car was a bit recalcitrant to start again, but once it had primed properly it idled perfectly happily. Look at this mess. The whole carb was full of this stuff.
Image20180324-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Unfortunately that ate rather more in to the time I did have than I wanted and nixxed the plans to get the welding work done I wanted to. With the clocks going forward and the trip to get Rover stuff tomorrow, I had to be super careful with how much time I used and my personal energy levels. Work has had me pretty flat out lately and I don't want to burn out on non-work stuff if I can help it, deadlines are pretty important to me like that. The other thing that needed sorting for MoT was securing the rear suspension hoses which proved a little trickier in practice than theory. We went with the best solution that prevented itself to us so the cables aren't flopping about but are secured in a way that they won't get overstretched when the suspension is in use.

As an aside, I really need a rear bump stop if anyone has one. I've had zero joy through the club or online finding one and I don't have spares. As far as I know they're not shared with other BL cars either and are a unique slotted and curved shape to accommodate the displacer unit.
Image20180324-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

There simply wasn't time to weld up the 'sharp edges' at the back of the car so I went with the temporary default instead.
Image20180324-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

She's as MoT ready as she can be now. Lights all tested fine, brakes are as good as I can get them without a rolling road thingy to double check, wipers are good, washer jets are aimed correctly now, etc. If we fail, we fail, but we should pass.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 24/03 FTP

Post by Vulgalour » Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:23 pm

MoT's are always a bit scary, especially when it's an older car and one that you've decided to rely on as a daily as I have with this one. I couldn't really find anything amiss so I got in the car to set off in convoy with Mike only to find the dash-mounted cigarette lighter won't power the sat nav, which is a bit odd because it didn't have a problem before. That meant convoying without knowing exactly where I was going and Mike not realising that his fuel injected straight six turbo Supra has just a little better acceleration than my carburettered straight four Princess. The drive out was a teensy bit stressful. As was rediscovering Princess blind spots, made worse because I couldn't take the time I would normally for fear of losing where Mike was going.

We arrived without drama, happily, and the weird chuntery hunting thing the engine has been doing was still happening. One look under the bonnet and Scaryoldcortina noticed that one of the spark plugs was loose! I'd checked this several times and completely missed it, when I went to tighten it up it was only finger tight. Glad we figured out what was causing the chuntering and resolved it before an errant spark plug could cause any damage. Princess went through the MoT first and decided not to play nice with Scary and not let him have gears without a fight, behaved perfectly fine once I got in. This car is a character like that.
Image20180329-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I assumed I'd missed something somewhere really obvious and while I did get a mild ribbing for the Arrowspeed (circa 1992) tyre that's on because the Camac (second hand from a Porsche, of all things) for that corner has a leaking rim, she went and passed with flying colours. I was actually surprised at this, I had expected an advisory on something even though we've only done a couple of hundred miles since the last MoT because of breakages.
Image20180329-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

So here's to another year of happy motoring, I hope! On the drive home we did get caught in the sleet and rain, which was less than pleasant, and the whining speedo cable is pretty annoying at motorway speeds. Oh, and the hazard switch celebrated the pass by now not working, so I need to fix that. Clean sheet though! I'm really happy about that, it makes all the hard work feel like it's been rewarded properly.

Had a flash of inspiration and looked in the fuse box. I reckon I've found my issue with the non-operational hazards and cigarette lighter.
Image20180329-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/03 MoT Result

Post by Gasman » Fri Mar 30, 2018 7:38 am

Well done passing the MoT. Always a worrying time.

I’m a bit funny about tyres. Those 4 little bits of rubber are all that keep you on the road. 25 year old tyres shouldn’t be driven at 70 for fear of failure IMHO. Ok for a spare. I’m very surprised that wasn’t an advisory.

As for the fuse failure what do you think caused it to burn out? Off hand I can’t remember what amperage a red one is although it looks pretty substantial!

I must have missed your request (prior to a couple of days ago) fora NOS rubber displacer bump stop thing so I apologise for that. I think I’ve got a NOS one that I got for Maurice but we repaired the original. I’m away for Easter but will look on my return. I’m afraid it wouldn’t be dirt cheap as it owes me the cost which I’ll have to look up.

If I were you I’d carry a spare fuel filter in the car. There looks to be lots of rusty crud coming from the petrol tank that might block the existing filter quite quickly and it would be good to know you’ve got the wherewithal for a roadside repair. A small price to pay.
Martin
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Owner of:
Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/03 MoT Result

Post by Vulgalour » Fri Mar 30, 2018 4:33 pm

I agree with the tyres and filters. Having barely covered 300 miles between MoTs because of things breaking and eating money has meant it's not been a priority, but I do have my eye on a set of new Michelins that look well suited to the car, just a case of getting the £250 together for buying and fitting them next. I used to keep a spare filter, ignition parts and fuses in the glovebox, they've all been used and misplaced while the car has been shunted about over the last few years so it's another thing to reinstate. There's always a toolbox in the boot, just in case.

I'm wondering if the fuse was weakened when the throttle cable was earthing because of the engine earth strap issue (happily now resolved, so far as I can tell). It's a bit strange really because before the MoT the sat nav worked fine and the hazards tested okay. I've not been able to find any loose wires or other obvious issues so I'm going to fit a new fuse and see what happens. It's a 16amp fuse that's blown. I have had that TomTom kill fuses before in other cars so it could even be a problem with the sat nav itself. I've had problems finding a supplier of good bullet fuses, they all seem to be really cheap things now, so Mike and I have been looking at converting the fuses to modern blade types by gutting a Princess fusebox and upgrading it with new holders wired in and relevant fuses fitted.

I've still got the two halves of the bump stop, I just don't know a product that will glue the rubber back onto the metal, I've not had much luck on previous attempts. If I can repair it that would be great, if not I'm interested in the spare you've got, especially since it's invoice pay day on the 2nd of April so I'll have some pocket money.

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Gasman
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/03 MoT Result

Post by Gasman » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:03 pm

I have waded through the resto of Maurice to see what glue we used to repair the bump stop. Very nostalgic but unhelpful as it seems to be one the many things that was skipped over. I’m pretty certain I used a cyanoacrylate. Once the displacer is pressing on it and suspension pumped up the 350+ psi pressure will keep it in place anyway. Let me know if you don’t want to do that.
Martin
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Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

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rovamota
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/03 MoT Result

Post by rovamota » Fri Mar 30, 2018 8:39 pm

May I recommend a set of Jinyu branded tyres for your car? They are exceptional value at £40 each fitted and offer good levels of grip along with good ride comfort and are perfectly adequate for a Princess. Your local independent tyre specialist should be able to source them for you.

I too have been looking at the fuse box and wondering if a superior alternative could be made. I thought of a plug in type box that simply connects over the existing fuse box and uses modern blade fuses. But would it be a worthwhile modification?

I've always thought that the standard fuse box looks a real Heath Robinson affair and looks like some kind of pre-production bodge that made it through to production.
Kev Davis.
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Founder of www.leylandprincess.co.uk.
Owner of unique Princess 2000ST 'Special Tuning'.

Vulgalour
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/03 MoT Result

Post by Vulgalour » Sat Mar 31, 2018 8:33 pm

Gasman: I'll give the suggested glue a go. I'd assumed superglue types would be too brittle for the application, but if you've had success it can't hurt to try. If it doesn't work, I'll be in touch for that spare.

Rova: Not heard of Jinyu before, I'll see if my local shop has them in stock. On the fusebox front I agree, the factory option is a bit sloppy and feels more kit car than some kit cars. Speaking of, it was kit car supplies that got Mike and I thinking about modern blade fuses as a solution since you can easily get a nice smart box with labels to hold the relevant number of fuses. It's not an expensive upgrade and blade fuses are easier to get in decent quality than the old bullet types, that's really the main advantage behind doing it rather than any sort of operational advantage like, for example, electronic ignition.

Put the Rover on SORN as of today so I can take it off the road to do the minor welding and the full interior swap which leaves me in the unenviable position of having the Princess as my only car. I've managed it before when money was tighter and the car wasn't so healthy so fingers crossed that while she looks far more cosmetically challenged than she did in 2012, she's actually going to be a more reliable and usable car than she was back then.

Be nice if it actually stopped being dreadful weather for a couple of days too so I could actually enjoy driving for a day or two.

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Tony c
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/03 MoT Result

Post by Tony c » Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:51 am

I can 2nd rovamotas recommendation of Jinyu tyres, I’ve got them on my 75, I’ll shortly be putting a set on the Ambo as they are now 8 years old and showing signs.
Jinyu are available online too, if you know someone who can fit them,maybe a cheaper option for you.
Tony

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/03 MoT Result

Post by Vulgalour » Sat Apr 14, 2018 7:38 pm

Have done about 120 miles since the MoT a couple of weeks ago. Might not seem a lot compared to a commuter car, but that's respectable enough for this Problem Child. We've been out in all weathers at all times of day and while she's a bit grumpy when it's very cold and very wet, she's otherwise been fine and returned respectable fuel economy. I'll probably go with the Jinyu tyres since I've seen good reports on those that confirm the good reports here, it sounds like they're very well suited to this sort of car and it saves me a bob or two over the brand name ones which is always welcome! That should be happening fairly soon since work has been rather good this month (long may it continue!) and I'm hoping come May I'll have some pennies in my pocket. I'll likely put the new tyres on the Lotus wheels since we should be clear of the Winter madness before too long, I hope!

Today, I started to work on jobs that I've been putting off sorting out since 2012. It's a good feeling to be tackling them having got so many other things out of the way finally.

----

Had a go at sorting out the very annoying driver's door today which has been sagging since I bought the car. Sometimes the sag seems to be caused by the hinge pin moving too much, sometimes it doesn't, I've never really got to the bottom of it. However, Des suggested I try jacking the door up with a block of wood which may reset things that might just have drooped with age and use. On the passenger side that worked moderately well and the door frame no longer contacts the B pillar at the top, the panel gap is a bit more even, and it shuts a bit better. It's not perfect by any means, but it's okay.
Image20180414-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The driver's side was more problematic. I repeated what I did on the passenger side and got some small improvement on fitment, but it was still catching on the B pillar at the top because of the door sagging.
Image20180414-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180414-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The bottom of this door is a bit tender, has been all the while I've owned it, and when I moved the jack and wood for a better place to lift it, the block of wood vanished inside the door. Looks like the tender bit is actually rotten now and it needs a repair to the frame and door skin. I've got a spare door and some steel so it's repairable, but it made the realignment a little more difficult.
Image20180414-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Not quite as effective having the block to the front of the door as I can't really lift and bend things to counteract the sag as effectively.
Image20180414-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I got the door close to shutting without catching the B-pillar and then resorted to moving the latch on the door and the pin on the B pillar to help me out.
Image20180414-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The door gap is at least even now but the whole door seems to be pushed back about 2mm or so too far.
Image20180414-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I'm going to drop the door off, knock the hinges forwards a couple of millimetres and refit the door. I'll pull the wing off when I do this too so that I can repair it properly, a job I've been putting off for ages. I don't think this issue is from the damage it got in my care because the door was like this when I got it, I think this is a more historic problem, and a little persuasion with a large hammer should see it right again.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 14/04 Update

Post by Gasman » Sun Apr 15, 2018 4:48 pm

As I was reading through I saw the picture of the jack under the door & thought "Ooh, I wouldn't do that with a rusty-bottomed door!" Sorry to hear I'm a right clever dick and my reservations had foundation.

SMG had the same problem on the driver's door. Replacing the hinge pins helped quite a lot but I also needed to lift the trailing edge of the door with a good heave-ho to help 're-align' things. I presume there are no shims between the door and A post on the upper hinge. I do remember having to give Maurice a good bonking to the driver's door where the hinge mounts to get reasonable panel gaps against the B post.
Martin
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Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 14/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Sun Apr 15, 2018 6:50 pm

It was one of those things where I thought I'd risk it, even though the little voice at the back of my head was saying "you're brave!", by which they actually mean daft. Inevitable, really. No shims causing issues... in fact, here's an update on today's activities.

---

This job went surprisingly well. I believe this is the first time I've taken the driver's door off. Initially I did tape the door switch down but the tape wasn't strong enough, so I disconnected the bulb instead, didn't want a flat battery or, worse, a melted interior light.
Image

With the door off I could check the hinges out. There's no play in the bottom hinge, but there is a little in the top one, so I knocked the hinge pin out. Annoyingly, the replacement pins I've got are all bottom hinge pins which I can't really use in the top hinges and you can see on this one that there is some wear. It's not enough to cause the sagging/alignment issues I'm having so I just cleaned it up, greased it, and put it back in after knocking the top hinge forwards a bit to counteract the sag.
Image

Realistically, I need to whack both hinges forwards a smidge more with a larger hammer than I had to hand today and that should sort out the alignment but I'll also have to pull the wing off because it's quite tight to the door at the moment due to it being slightly deformed. First fit of the spare door was quite positive. The gaps are more even all around now and the sag is much reduced.
Image

Image

You can see here where the swage line of the wing is pushed in too far, closing up the gap. I can sort this out when I remove the wing and repair it, the panel just needs a little massaging to sort out the clearance. Surprisingly the door doesn't catch the wing, though it does come very close!
Image

The spare door is probably a bit far gone to repair having looked at it with a critical eye compared to the one that came off. There's rust in places that are going to be difficult to repair and several stress fractures in the frame and outer skin. It's also slightly deformed on the lower edge, so it doesn't line up quite as well as it might with the car. I can repair it if I have to, and I may well do so because having a spare panel is useful. For now it's ideal for filling the hole while I repair my better door and with Princess doors being quite difficult to find in any condition, I do have to work with what I've got.
Image

After a little more fettling I had the door fitted and annoyingly even though it's in worse condition than the one I'm repairing, it fits the car better! The lock works with the key I've got which saved me swapping the more awkward linkages over, it just looks dreadful.
Image

On screwing the window guides back to the door frame I was a bit confused at first as to why the window would drop happily enough but wouldn't go up evenly. Turns out that one of the guides for the window regulator rollers has rotted away completely so the back edge of the window doesn't lift evenly and tries to drop into the door. Because this is likely to be a chore and I don't want to go for the window out of habit, I didn't refit the window winder. If nothing else, that'll be good motivation to get the door I removed repaired and back on the car.
Image

I reattached the weather strip/stainless trim and the door mirror to complete the day's work and loaded the spare door into Mike's estate. I hope to be tackling the repairs and repainting the door I removed over the course of this week. If I can find a new or really good pair of upper hinge pins that would be neat too as every little will help with alignment.
Image

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 15/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Mon Apr 16, 2018 4:59 pm

I was going to start dismantling and cleaning up the door I removed ready for welding and paint. Before that, I wanted to see if I could move the wing at all so I could push the A pillar hinges forwards a smidge without the door catching the wing. The simple solution is big hammers, but I want this to look nice when I'm done so we shan't be doing that. Instead, I double-checked what I needed to do to remove the wing with minimal damage to it so I can repair it off the car. I'll likely convert to bolt-on because alignment, etc. is going to be a lot easier and, if I get a really nice pair of wings in the future, it will be a lot easier to remove these old ones.

So, to remove the wing you have to unbolt the 4 bolts that attach it to the A pillar. You can't get to these bolts without removing the door. You can't remove the door without stripping the trim off it again and the door is held on with six nuts at the hinges. Then you have to drill out the spotwelds holding the wing to the car. There's a lot of spotwelds. I had enough time today to remove 26 of them.

Image20180416-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

There's another half dozen or so spotwelds at the nose end of the wing around the headlight aperture and a few more on the wing rail that I can't get to because the bonnet is in the way. So I'm going to have to take the bonnet off too. Added to this is the complication that this is my everyday car, so it can't really come off the road while I do this during the week. I hate welded on wings, they're a chore to remove.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 15/04 Update

Post by Gasman » Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:34 pm

If you want to move the door towards the front of the car I wouldn't try and move the hinges forward on the A post, rather gently ease in where the hinge attaches to the door. Trust me, it's a lot easier!
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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 15/04 Update

Post by rovamota » Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:57 pm

I hope your angle grinder is nearby because you will definitely need it cut between the front apron and the lower front wing where they meet as well as around the headlight. Been there done that...
Kev Davis.
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Owner of unique Princess 2000ST 'Special Tuning'.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 15/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Mon Apr 16, 2018 8:04 pm

Some angle grinding will need to be done, but not a lot. The nose end spot welds around the headlight should be drillable, I managed it with the orange wing, though it is difficult to do. The spot welds under the car where the valance-to-wing seam is have long since rotted out, gone even when I got the car. I'll have to slice through the seam on the top side of the valance-to-wing because when I did the first round of repairs I welded that.

It's a lot of work to do it this way, but I don't mind really. Once the wing is off I can properly clean, paint and protect the inner wing and repair any damage that might be there. I always knew this was going to be quite a large job but once it's done I'll be making the first steps to getting the exterior cosmetics looking good which this car is WELL overdue on now.

As for the hinge, the hammer-on-the-hinge method worked to give me enough clearance to deal with the sag and catching the B pillar, a little more attention on the same spot combined with a little heat (but not too much) should get just the smidge more I need before refitting the wing in the proper place. In theory. Practice may be a different matter entirely, so at least I have the door tweaking method as a back up now you've mentioned it.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 15/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Thu Apr 19, 2018 7:14 pm

Mike has been really rather unwell lately so I've not had a helper for the next stage of wing removal. He's on the mend, happily, but a trip to the hospital was rather more important than taking my car to bits. As a result, with today being the first really nice day of the year and me hoarding a few supplies in preparation, I decided to make a start sprucing up the outside of the Princess much like I did the engine bay. We're not going for super professional show quality here, just tidy and clean.

I'm focusing on the passenger side as that needs less work and I'm breaking the job down into smaller sections so I can deal with the best bits first and leave the repairs for last. This is an odd way of doing it, I'm aware, but if I make as much of the car presentable as I can, blending in the repairs will I think give me a much bigger boost and allow me to properly draw a line under things. Aiming for perfection with this car at this stage is silly, far better to aim for presentable. Right, excuses out the way, here's what I got on with today. Only tackled the beige on the passenger side doors and rear wing.
Image20180419-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180419-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It's quite difficult to photograph! I didn't mask off the lower portion because I'll be redoing all of that with fresh paint. The purple on the lower half was fairly hastily applied for the most part so I'll be sanding back through a lot of it when I do the preparation. There's a couple of areas that showed up as needing a little more attention once I started getting a shine on the panel, which I'll likely tackle in the future, but they're not bad enough that I feel I have to do them right away. There's a huge amount of overspray on the lower half because there was no point wasting materials masking it off since I'll be keying it all back and dealing with imperfections before putting fresh paint on. I'll obviously take more care masking off the fresh beige when I do the lower portion though.

Here's a shot without so much exposure. The finish is pretty reasonable. There's a couple of spots where historic dents are visible in person from certain angles that just don't show up in photos. So that's fine really, isn't it? The beige is pretty flattering to panel imperfections.
Image20180419-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The boot lid was never finished either, I had to rush to get that back on. You can see that the paint on it is far too thin, especially compared to the rear wing. I'll wet sand and polish things once I've got everything tidied up properly like this.
Image20180419-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I'll put the trim on either much later tonight or tomorrow, I don't want to accidentally damage the fresh paint refitting trims since I can still use the car with them off.

Now the sun has gone down a bit I could get a better shot of the finish. Only one bug (successfully removed without paint damage) and minimal dust issues is pretty impressive for a driveway rattlecan paintjob, if I do say so myself.
Image20170419-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 19/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Fri Apr 20, 2018 7:00 pm

Today involved some of this because it's once again glorious and lovely.
Image20180420-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr


The back door needed rather more filler work than I'd expected and there's plenty of imperfections still remaining on this side. I'm fed up of constantly trying to find enough time to make things perfect so I'm embracing the imperfections that need hours and hours of hand sanding to resolve and instead getting myself a reasonable 6' finish on everything. Much less stress and the car will look much nicer. I can always deal with those imperfections a panel at a time in the future, or get someone else to do it for me if ever I can afford a proper respray. For now, it's all a case of Thistle Dew.
Image20180420-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180420-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180420-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Oh yeah. I changed the colour again. Thank you to the three people I told for keeping it secret! When I redyed the orange carpet the result was so good it made me rethink the purple and what I could go with that would match the beige. I had briefly considered two-tone grey with an orange pin stripe but the amount of work involved to redo things like the engine bay put paid to that drastic a colour change. Orange, equally, didn't go so well with the beige and I didn't fancy brown because there's already two-tone brown-and-beige Princesses in existence. So I went with Rustoleum Balmoral to compliment the Rustoleum Antique White. I'm glad I took the chance, I like this more than the purple, and if it mellows a little darker I won't mind that at all either.

Why Rustoleum? It's easy to get, it's cheap, and it's proven to be really good for this sort of work on other cars. I've used lacquer over the top of it in addition for the extra protection and to hopefully prevent colour fade but, really, I've found this paint to be pretty durable even when applied hastily and neglected. It's good stuff, I'd recommend it. You'll just have to pretend the whole car is going to look this smart when I'm done.
Image20180420-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 20/04 Update

Post by Tony c » Sun Apr 22, 2018 12:28 pm

It must be a great pleasure for you to tackle the cosmetics with all the problems you’ve previously encountered, I think personally think the red looks much better than the purple.
Just goes to show that tenacity pays!,Tony

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 20/04 Update

Post by Gasman » Mon Apr 23, 2018 4:52 pm

I agree with Tony C that (IMO) the red is much better than the purple and contrasts the white well. It also goes better with the seat covers. The only snag is it'll no longer match the purple engine or did I dream that...
Martin
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Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 20/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Apr 25, 2018 7:58 pm

There's some purple bits in the engine bay - starter motor casing, belt cover - but those are easy enough to remove and repaint, which I'll do to match the new scheme. Not a single person hasn't liked this red, it's very strange, I'm used to my decisions always dividing folks or being really disliked, so it's taking some getting used to! What's more, I too am hugely happier with the red and it's all because of that orange carpet experiment really, which meant it didn't match the previous purple.

It is a joy and a relief to be working on cosmetic stuff properly now rather than battling with everything else. Feels like a reward for time served.

---

Box of new paint arrived today and I was feeling considerably better than I have the past couple of days. Unit is empty for the first time in a while too, so everything was lining up particularly well, especially since the weather hasn't been conducive to outdoor work. To kick things off, I did the small amount of trim hole type welding on the front wing, there was considerably less of this to do than I'd expected. Then, once that was cooled off and flatted back, it was filler time, including the most visible and annoying of the dents on the boot lid.
Image20180425-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180425-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The front wing has had a lot of work over the years, so it's a bit wobbly in places. I've done my best with it, but I still need to go back and do more filler work on the sections that curve under the car, sections you only really see when you're actually under the car, so they don't matter for now. When I'd got to the point that things were tidied up and ready for masking off, I had a little moment of inspiration with some slightly domed brown paper. In person, if you shape it into a crude sort of bubble skirt, it lends the car a slightly Citroen/concept feel. Consideration for another day that, I haven't the skills to be making surface-mount blind fixing compound curve lightweight spats that subtly blend from the arch flare. Doesn't look anywhere near as right in photographs, strangely.
Image20180425-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

On with the masking then. Bit of a luxury getting to work indoors and use proper paper for this. Unfortunately the boot badges are fixed on rather too well with the trim clips we used so I couldn't get them off, instead masking around them. Not the ideal solution, but I'd rather that than damage the very soft metal badges.
Image20180425-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

A few hours later, and some quite unpleasant hand sanding on the lower reaches of the front wing, and it's looking somewhat finished on this side now.
Image20180425-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180425-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Pretty chuffed with that. I'll either paint the rear wing on the other side and the face of the car next or crack on with doing the welding repairs on the front wing and doors before doing any more painting at all. Rear panel will get painted once I get the new lights installed, there's no point putting fresh paint on that until I've done the welding in of the new inner buckets.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 25/04 Update

Post by Gasman » Thu Apr 26, 2018 4:11 pm

I had to laugh at your evaluation that your decisions on various bits provoke controversy. Surely not! I think you must be getting old because first of all 'those' wing mirrors went and now a nice red paint job instead of the purple. It's looking good. Keep up the good work.
Martin
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Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 25/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:28 pm

It's the buying a house thing that's done it, I'm sure. Finally made me settle down and be sensible. :lol:

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 25/04 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Sun Apr 29, 2018 4:42 pm

I'm in need of a pair of driveshaft oil seals.

Couple of hundred miles done since the MoT and a few problems to work through now. Decided to do a few checks since I've been using the car regularly and it's been pretty trouble free for the last 100 miles or so.

Coolant weep - A jubilee clip needs replacing with a size smaller, the one fitted doesn't quite go small enough and is letting out a small spot of coolant overnight. No noticeable coolant loss, but it would be nice to have no loss at all.

Oil leak - inner driveshaft oil seals, both sides. Passenger side is much worse. Mostly the oil is getting thrown out and leaving a thin sheen on everything rather than dripping on the floor so it's not a terrible leak, but it would be nice to not have the leak at all.

CV boot - one has a nick in it and I noticed some perishing starting in the concertina on a couple of them. I'll replace the lot when I do the driveshaft oil seals and do another oil change while I'm at it.

Minor maintenance jobs there, which is nice. Oil loss/consumption over the last 300-400 miles has been negligable, coolant even more so. Electrical systems are all behaving now too. Since fitting the new exhaust the tune seems to be a bit off so we're going to recheck that and I suspect it's running just a little bit lean. Again, just minor maintenance tasks there which is something of a relief.

The noisy speedo drive cable has quietened down now, as have a lot of the random little noises I had when first getting the car back into regular use, seems some use has done it the world of good. Weirdly, I'm not missing the Rover, as great a little car as that is, because the Princess is being quite enjoyable to own at the moment and feels much more visible in modern traffic, which removes quite a bit of driving stress.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 29/04 Oil Seals Needed

Post by Vulgalour » Wed May 02, 2018 7:03 pm

Today, I rendered myself without a car I can drive. Because I'm an idiot. But, the welding on the Princess really is a job I need to do before I move because I'm not sure when I'll get set up with a welder properly once I move so I might as well dig in and get stuff sorted. It rarely takes me long to get things fixed now. The wing is proving to be quite an involved job and not one I'm especially enjoying. Happily the bonnet didn't need to come off, I noticed Rovamota had propped his bonnet pretty much vertical in a recent update on his build so we did the same which gave the access needed for the last wing rail spot welds. Only they weren't spotwelds, it was a good 1/4" of filler over brazing.
Image20180502-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I suspect that isn't factory. I suspect this is in fact a replacement wing too. With the wing rail now un-welded, I cheated on the leading edge by flapwheeling the return to separate the layers. I did this because I don't need to save more than this and it's easier to clean up and repaint the surrounding bits. I made one mistake by thinking I had to take the spotwelds out around the return, which in turn meant removing headlights, headlight bracket, and grille, so I could get in with the drill.
Image20180502-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

What I learned when the wing came off is the extension fillet piece looks like it's actually part of the wing itself rather than the body of the car. Also, the fillet was only held on by half a spotweld that didn't look very factory, lending some credence to the theory that this is a replacement wing. It looks bad, but there's plenty here for me to reuse.
Image20180502-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With the wing off I could finally see what the real damage was underneath. The extension piece is a little deformed and there's a difficult dent to knock out in the inner wing, but other than that everything is in pretty good shape. There's no rust concerns at the nose end beyond what I was aware of on external panels and with the wing off I can clean and straighten what I need to. I've already spent some time on this getting the metal work looking right again after this picture was taken.
Image20180502-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

While most things are fine, there is a rust hole behind the fuse box. I didn't know about this at all and the only way I was likely to discover it was by taking the wing off. It's an easy piece to make since it's just flat sheet, I just have to be careful of the wiring. Of note is the little shelf to the top of the A pillar which serves ostensibly as a drain but in my case as a small composting area. The wing aerial goes through the drain hole in this area and practically fills it, which is less than ideal. However, the metal is all nice and solid so it just needs a really good clean once I've welded up that hole. one strange thing is the large black blob which turned out to be some sort of sticky putty. Underneath there was no hole or surprise, so I have no idea what it is or why it was there. And yes, annoying the door did need to come off to get to the bolts for the wing.
Image20180502-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With everything cleaned up for trial fitting, that's just what I did. The front valance needs a slight massage on this corner but otherwise, things are falling into place where they need to and not fighting so I'm cautiously optimistic that this will all go together nicely.
Image20180502-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The panel gap between the orange wing and bonnet is hugely improved now. Once the old wing was removed, everything sprang back into the place it should be. The wing rail needs a little massaging from the damage caused by spotweld removal, but nothing patience can't resolve.
Image20180502-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180502-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The areas the orange wing needs repairing are the same I'd already repaired on the beige one, so I'll be chopping out what I need from the beige wing and fitting it to the orange one. To get the beige wing to fit is going to need a lot of work, I suspect it's slightly stretched or buckled given how nicely the orange wing just drops on compared to it. So the orange wing needs the corner at the top trailing edge, the lower trailing edge (I've already done the exact same repair on the beige one, so I'll cut that off and swap it over), and the lower leading edge. the majority of the arch itself is in really good shape. The other really big job is repairing the wing rail lip on which I need to weld up most of the old spotweld holes (some I plan to repurpose for bolts), and replace a missing section.
Image20180502-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180502-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Tomorrow I'll hopefully get some of the repairs done, probably the inner wing work first, and we'll see how I get on. It's a lot of fiddly time consuming stuff to do on this.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 02/05 Wing Work

Post by Vulgalour » Thu May 03, 2018 7:18 pm

Got some more time in on this today and made some pretty decent progress. First annoying task was moving the wiring out of the way. I also had to move the bonnet release cable and that resulted in every plastic locator clip breaking so I'll have to reinstate that with new clips.
Image20180503-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With that lot out the way I could investigate how bad that rust hole was. Not too bad, as it happened, just had to be a bit of a funny shape. While I did spend some time grinding back the welds I didn't go overboard because this bit is never, ever seen. On this car, there was no point making it perfect here, just solid and not rusty.
Image20180503-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I cleaned up the blind side of the wing fillet and doused it in rust converter. I couldn't do all of the other side with the bench grinder, I'll have to attack it with paint stripper and a wire cup brush in a drill, I didn't have time to do that today.
Image20180503-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I stripped back the surface rust and found no horrors lurking. There was quite a bit of historic repainting as I've found elsewhere all over the car, but it wasn't so bad to deal with here since it seems to have been done with the wing welded on, rather than before. A pillar was as BL intended, so there was nothing but a bit of surface cleaning to do there. I then doused the lot in rust converter which I will leave until tomorrow. I usually sand back when I've used rust converter before putting any paint on top as this seems to give a more durable finish and helps the paint adhere better. Under here this will get stonechip, primer, colour top coat, and underseal of some sort to keep it all as absolutely healthy as I can manage.
Image20180503-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

More and more I'm sure the front wing I removed is a replacement. There's signs of brazing around the front end too and I'm sure they didn't braze these panels from new. The rear door this side also has brazing repairs so I suspect this is pre-restoration work and more likely DIY work in the mid to late 80s when Princesses were generally starting to look a bit tired but you could still get replacement panels for them. You can see on the slam panel that there's a couple of bright spots of braze and on the headlight support there's a long line that at first looks like sealant, but is actually more brazing.
Image20180503-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180503-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I was going to drop the bonnet to so I could keep as much dust out of the engine bay as possible to make cleaning up later and as I screwed the bonnet ram home, the captive nut decided it wanted to be free, so I'll have to tack that back on.
Image20180503-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Finally, I gave the orange wing an exploratory flapwheel and found, on the whole, it was in better shape than I'd expected. The majority of the arch is in really good shape and the rot on the leading edge isn't actually as advanced as I feared. Unfortunately I couldn't salvage the leading edge piece from the beige wing as it's rotted out here. I chopped off the two sections I needed to repair the orange wing with but I don't think I can fit those until I've sorted out fitment on the car, so the next job is to bolt the orange wing onto the car so I can trim and tack the repair sections into place before welding it all, then stripping all the paint off, filling, and painting it all.
Image20180503-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

A few more days of my free time to go to sort this one out yet. We'll get there, it's looking very promising so far.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 02/05 Wing Work

Post by Vulgalour » Fri May 04, 2018 9:45 pm

Got another few hours in today but it was so warm in the unit, especially with my overalls on, that I couldn't manage as much as I would have liked. I'll be going back in tomorrow or Monday to finish up, I hope. One advantage of it being warm was that the paint on the inner wing went down quickly and easily, so that bit is finished now.
Image20180504-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I marked out which of the spotweld holes were best to repurpose for new wing fixings and Mike drilled the holes for me. I've straightened this out as best I can too, so I just need to replace the missing section (already cut out and ready to fit) and weld up the holes I don't need to use to sort this bit out. For the bolts, I'm using some fairly small ones that go into clips that fit to the wing rail as this is the best way of doing it within the limitations of the space available.
Image20180504-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

To help fill trim, spotweld and small rust holes, I've been making use of this chunky brass fitting. By holding it against the back of the panel I can sort of puddle weld the hole in without blowing through the thing steel or leaving loads of welding whiskers on the back of the panel. It's saved me buying a block of copper or similar, which is what I was going to do. If it gets too covered in welding blobs, just wire wheel it and it's good to go again.
Image20180504-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With the inner wing done I could put the outer in place and start rebuilding it. Fit is pretty good for the most part and to keep it that way it made most sense to tack the repair sections in place with the wing on the car, then remove the wing to weld them up fully. There was a good amount to remove, but nowhere near as much work as putting the beige wing right.
Image20180504-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With the big patches on the trailing edge at top and bottom welded on, I had another look at the spare wing for the leading edge piece I needed. I've got two used K11 Micra wings that have some useful profiles, but none that were suitable for the complicated curves of the lower reaches of the Princess wing. In desperation I sliced off the bottom of the spare Princess wing and cleaned it back on the wire wheel. It isn't this side I repaired, it was the other side. This side is the one that had been repaired before and had a thick skim of filler. I cleaned it back and had enough of the original profile left to build out from that it was worth using. There's a few edge bits I need to redo, but this is far easier than trying to make the piece from scratch and have it look anywhere near as right.
Image20180504-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With that welded in place the wing is much more solid now. I need to clean up and reattach the fillet, weld up the bumper and spotweld holes, and clean back the welding on the wing next. After that I'll do the rust treatment, paint, etc. on the back of the wing before undersealing it and reattaching it to the car properly since it's going to be a lot easier to profile and paint the outside of the wing on the car. It will also allow me to get it all back in one piece again so I can use it, so I'm not too concerned with the patchwork look of the outside of the wing for now. The last job today was welding the captive nut for the bonnet rams back on. Not a pretty job, but at least it's solid again.
Image20180504-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I know about the wings the club is selling and, realistically, the ones that are in my budget need too much work compared to what I've already got and the one that doesn't need any work is well beyond my current budget. For now, these will do, and the repairs should last a good few years all being well.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 04/05 Wing Work

Post by Gasman » Sat May 05, 2018 5:35 pm

I'm beginning to feel we cheated a bit having a professional welder for Maurice, but then, we can't weld! All credit to you. Good job.
Martin
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Owner of:
Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 04/05 Wing Work

Post by Vulgalour » Mon May 07, 2018 2:37 pm

I would love to be able to farm the welding out. Potentially better welding and less hassle for me! I don't mind welding when I can take my time and stay nice and cool doing it but it's not something I could do for a living, I have a lot of respect for pro-welders, it's a tough job. Getting someone else to do Maurice was a really sensible idea because of how much there was to do.

When it's cooled down a bit I'll head in to try and finish the welding repairs on the wing, there's very little to go now, just some fiddly edge bits. It's simply too hot to be in the unit today wrapped up in overalls, hopefully by 4-5pm it will be cool enough to weld comfortably.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 04/05 Wing Work

Post by Vulgalour » Mon May 07, 2018 10:42 pm

Today was a rare day off properly for me so I determined to get the Princess sorted enough to drive it home. Was a bit delayed by it being a bit of a scorcher and I didn't really want to be welding in the height of the heat today. The short version is this.
Image20180507-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It's not finished yet, there's still stuff to do, I just ran out of time and after having the driver's door put up a monumental fight for an hour and fall on me twice (remember, last time I did this it was easy peasy and almost a joy to do), I just didn't have the energy to do any more. By 9pm I was heading home after about five hours work and goodness knows how many pints of water to stay hydrated, satisfied that things were good enough. I didn't take many pictures of the progress because I just knuckled down and got on with it so I can't show you the amount of work I did cleaning up, rust treating, painting, and undersealing the inside of the wing, nor the work done undersealing the inner wing you can't get to once the outer is on. What I can show you is the extent of the repairs. It's not my finest work but the condition of the two wings I was working with made it very difficult to get a better finish, a skim of filler and you'll be none the wiser.
Image20180507-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180507-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180507-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

At the moment the wing does sit too far forwards and the panel gap between the wing and the bonnet needs closing up a little. This is something I can do later since it's just slacking off fixings and pushing the wing about until it's where it needs to be. Then I can finish the paint and the lower front corner repairs. I also managed to straighten out the dent in the valance reasonably well so it lines up pretty well with the wing, I just need to finish tidying up the edges so I can secure it fully.

Then it was a case of cleaning off the windscreen, connecting the side repeater (which I left in the engine bay so I don't make a complete hash of the fresh paint on the wing) and driving home. Princess started absolutely no bother and drove home quite happily, it was a big sense of achievement to actually manage to do that, even if the wing isn't quite finished yet.
Image20180507-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180507-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 07/05 Wing Work

Post by Vulgalour » Wed May 16, 2018 6:52 pm

Made the executive decision to leave the front wing alone for now. After considering how difficult it is to take on and off because of having to take the door off, I decided it would be wiser at the moment to repair my original driver's door and have it painted and ready to go on before doing this wing. This way I won't have to then remove and refit the door again after doing the wing, I can do both at the same time. So today I made a start on that. Limited time again because I only have 2-4 hours a day spare on work days so I didn't get into the welding. Also, there was almost no filler on this panel but that's because there was so much paint on it you didn't need filler. In places there were five resprays evident not including the quick tart up I'd done with the purple pre-MoT. Happily, overall the door is in reasonable shape (for a Princess door on a car that lives outdoors all year round).
Image20180516-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180516-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Removing the lock escutcheon was a bit annoying, got there in the end when I figured out which bits came apart and which didn't. The rust staining under the waist trim turned out to be the usual Princess problem, something that's much more advanced on the orange door. A fiddly repair, but not too daunting. Further down the panel there's also a tiny hole about the size of a stonechip, which was a little strange, hopefully that will just fill with a quick blob of weld like doing a trim hole.
Image20180516-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Leading edge was much better than anticipated. This was still wearing mostly just factory paint and is in good shape so I've only attacked the obvious problem areas here rather than stripping it right back to bare metal. Nice to find a good solid bit of door where I expected problems.
Image20180516-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Equally, the lower edge which I had thought was really bad, was actually fairly honest. There's not a great deal that needs replacing here and even the historic repair in there is done well. Whoever replaced that square of door bothered to cut out the rot and shape the patch piece well enough that I'll leave it alone, no point undoing adequate work. The trouble with these doors is that the drain hole isn't the lowest point water sits and because of the way they're made, you can't put drain holes in lower down. The only solution, really, is to fill the bottom of the doors with cavity wax until it's coming out of the drainholes and seams and hope it never dries out enough to trap moisture.
Image20180516-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The only negative surprise was on the trailing edge under the door latch where there's always been a blob that looked like thick paint. It was actually filler. There's a strengthening panel inside this part of the door which looks to be unaffected beyond a bit of surface rust. Rather than chop out what must have been very small holes back when this was bodged, whoever did it decided to put enough filler on that it nearly smoothed out the panel pressing and ignore it. Worked pretty well until I poked it, in all fairness.
Image20180516-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Now I have to decide whether to do the outer skin or the inner frame first. I don't want to lose my reference points on either but I'm not in a position to be putting the door on and off the car repeatedly to check fit. It's also not a job I'm skilled enough to do with the door on the car. I'll probably make a template of the outer skin, repair the inner frame after cutting away what I need to of the outer skin, then repair the outer skin, seal, and paint. I'm going to try and take it slower on this repair as I want to do better than I did with the other door I repaired which ideally needs the sill edge redoing as it's ever so slightly off. I want to get good at doing door bottom repairs, the sort of cars I like owning always need this job doing so it would be a useful skill to master.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 16/05 Door Work

Post by Vulgalour » Fri May 18, 2018 6:04 pm

Made a start on this today properly and began by using a combination of hand tools to unfold what's left of the door skin edge where it folds over the inner frame. It was bad, but not as bad as I'd expected, so that was a fairly positive start to things. I roughly marked out the bits that were too far gone to work out what to replace.

Image20180518-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

This edge and corner is going to be a fiddly thing to put right because of the pressing. Not sure how well I'll be able to recreate the factory pressing for the corner so I may go with a simpler shape since this bit is seriously prone to rotting out so will likely need doing again in the future no matter how careful I am with the repair.

Image20180518-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Then it was tape, angle grinder, and brave pill time so that I could cut a massive hole in the bottom of the door. I do not like this bit. I was in two minds about leaving the step on the repair panel to the left, the metal is really good there but it's also a funny shape. I decided to leave the good metal in because getting the angle grinder in was harder than making the repair piece the correct shape. Very much a compromise, a proper repair would most likely involve removing the whole door skin and that would certainly have made access to this bit a lot easier. Never mind, we're doing it this way.

Image20180518-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Got the first large repair piece made, offered up a couple of times, and the nearest fit I could manage within my skills. I'm not talented enough to do the whole repair of the inner frame in one piece, I'll do the corner and that trailing edge as two separate pieces before stitching it all back together. I got it all tacked in place, tweaked where needed, and got on with the welding. The welds started getting really spitty and ugly and I realised the gas bottle was empty so I had to stop, which was a little frustrating. New gas bottle on order and I'll pick this up again when it arrives.

Image20180518-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 16/05 Door Work

Post by Vulgalour » Sat May 26, 2018 2:44 pm

Before stripping the carb down I wanted to replace the choke cable, the one on the car is badly frayed and deformed at the carb end and I knew it wasn't going to go back in the tiny little hole again. Trouble is, finding a Princess specific choke cable is something I've never managed to do, so after discovering a few bits are shared with the good old Mini, I took a chance and bought what looked like the same cable for one of those since it was very cheap and not too risky a gamble.

Here's how you do it. First, you need to purchase a classic Mini choke cable OR a generic one. I bought a 60" cable because I wasn't sure how long it needed to be but I knew that would be more than enough, there are generic ones available that are shorter. I also got the one Minimine stock because the handle is as close to identical as you're likely to get to the one that was in the Princess originally. First job is to undo the tiny nut on the choke cable mechanism at the curburettor. I used a screwdriver socket drive with a relevant tiny socket on for this since that's easier to get in with than a ratchet.
Image20180526-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Then, pull the choke cable through from the inside of the car, leaving the outer sheath in place. This is important as the outer sheath isn't interchangable with the Mini/generic cable and generally they aren't damaged anyway. You may find it easier to disconnect one half of the column shroud for rethreading the cable, you may be okay doing it with it in place. I elected to remove the shroud as it's only two screws, one being next to the choke pull and the other at the bottom of the shroud at about 7 o'clock position as you look at the steering column from the steering wheel end.
Image20180526-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

This is the mess that is my old cable. That's never going to go back in its place and having already been trimmed in the past, there isn't enough cable left to trim it shorter to get back to anything good again.
Image20180526-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

This is the outer sheath of the Mini cable, designed this way so it can be screwed to the dash panel. This doesn't easily go into the Princess so it's best just to bin this bit, you don't need it (unless you have another car that does, of course).
Image20180526-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Here are the cable inners side by side. The shinier one is the new one. They have a slightly different shape towards the choke pull end but they are otherwise identical. The new cable is ever so slightly thicker too. This is why I suspected this would work.
Image20180526-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Then, you thread the new cable from the column shroud end. I found this easier with the shroud unscrewed from the column so I could line the cable up easier. Rethreading it is really easy providing your sheath is in good condition and requires no effort at all, which is nice. Once rethreaded, reattach the column shroud then rethread the cable through the weird nut in the choke mechanism and adjust accordingly. The only problem with the 60" cable is that it's much too long and does need trimming down. I haven't got a suitable tool to do this at the moment that will cut the cable without crushing and fraying the end so for now the excess is threaded out of the way down the back of the engine and I'll deal with it later. A 50-55" cable would be a better fit.
Image20180526-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Then time to test. Pull out the cable and see if it locks properly... and it does!
Image20180526-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Unlock the cable and push it back in to make sure it does so smoothly and the light goes out... and it does!
Image20180526-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Operation is much smoother and now I know I can safely disconnect throttle and choke cable to rebuild the carb without fear of the cables fraying and being impossible to reinstall. Less than a tenner to sort and the choke pull looks nicer inside the car since the insert in the old one had broken and come out. It's nice when a job goes smoothly like that.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 26/05 Choke Cable

Post by Vulgalour » Sat May 26, 2018 8:12 pm

I had a moment of inspiration today when thinking about what to use to retrim the faded parcel shelf and remembered the leather I salvaged from a broken sofa we threw out recently. The back panel was just the right size to do the job and had the added benefit of nice straight seams to add some visual interest rather than being a single flat piece. Works really well in the car and the grain isn't too far off the factory vinyl so it looks right at home. It should hold up a bit better against UV than the velvet did. I didn't cut the speaker holes in the leather as I can do that easily at a later date and the rear speakers aren't wired in yet. I don't even have a radio in the car at the moment, tunes are low priority for me.
Image20180526-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I also put the waist trim back on the boot lid since it wanted to play ball this time.
Image20180526-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 26/05 Choke Cable

Post by Vulgalour » Sun Jun 03, 2018 8:22 pm

A little video update from today's activities.

https://youtu.be/mbJAefgntN8

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 06/03 FTP

Post by Vulgalour » Sun Jun 17, 2018 4:49 pm

Not a lot to report. Ticked over to 76,000 miles recently.
Image20180615 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I got fed up of the very nice looking clamp-mount mirrors recently because they kept getting knocked when parked and adjusting themselves while driving. This would have been less of an issue if I could have got them to clamp a bit tighter and if my driver's door window actually opened. I've lost track of how many mirror sets I've had fitted to this car in my quest to find something attractive and practical. The black wing mirrors were best for visibility but got in the way when trying to do engine bay stuff and since I welded up the holes for those I reckon I drew a line under ever fitting them again. I found a set on eBay for a lot less than they should have been, especially going by the prices others are selling them for.

Since it involved drilling holes in a door, I decided now would be a good time to trial them since the orange door on the car is only a step above scrap and I've still not finished repairing the original door because of other commitments. You might be able to recognise them, the base mount is a bit of a giveaway and the bit I like least about them.

Image20180617-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Sometimes I don't like them because I've been used to seeing much smaller mirrors on the car. They are, however, much better to use. You have to knock them quite hard to put them out of adjustment and because the mirror is that much squarer than the previous offerings, you can still see well even if the mirror is badly adjusted. They mount much better too, with no vibration while driving or sat at idle. They can be folded in if needed too, which none of the previous mirrors could do.

Image20180617-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180617-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

They feel like they're the right size for the car and they almost eliminate the C pillar blind spot. From some angles they do look too big and clunky, from others you don't really notice them, so they're probably about right. They come from a Suzuki SJ, of all things.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 17/06 76k

Post by Vulgalour » Tue Jun 19, 2018 12:52 am

A little bit of an update. I intended to do more today, instead it was lots of little errands and then getting sidetracked with some skip-diving (remember what I said about no more projects? Oops). First thing to report is that I didn't want to spend nearly $2 USD per special bolt/screw for the new rear light fixings, plus $20-30 postage, so I went to the local fixings place and bought a fistful of allen headed stainless bolts that will do exactly the same job for 50p each. I also bought all the rear bulbs I need for the new light units, which was more expensive because they're weird American offset peg nonsense and coloured glass because of the clear lenses they're sitting behind.
Image20180619-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

With those got, the only thing stopping me doing the rear lights is now time, so they can be my reward for when I've got the front panels done on the Princess and the MoT on the Rover. I didn't really have enough time to get into welding today, but I did have some time, so determined to fit the other door mirror since I'm so happy with the first. Biggest problem is that I don't actually have a pair, I have two driver's side mirrors. Not an issue, I've got heat, a vice, and a huge wrench, all of which were employed to bend the mirror stalk the opposite way. This worked very well and I now have excellent rear visibility on both sides of the car, which is something of a novelty. I like the mirrors more now there's two on the car and taking the paint off the mirror mount to reveal the cast aluminium is a big improvement in that area, I'll strip the paint off the driver's mirror when it goes on the door I'm repairing.
Image20180619-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Trying to do at least one little job a day from now on, even if that little job is a mere inch of welding. That way I should make progress on everything and easily hit my self imposed deadline. You'll have to excuse blur-o-vision, the camera was clearly too excited to focus properly.
Image20180619-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 19/06

Post by Gasman » Tue Jun 19, 2018 8:16 pm

A little and often is always a good ploy. That's been a good job bending that rather thick mirror stalk although your camera seems to get easily excited...
Martin
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Owner of:
Oldest known surviving wedge, hand-built 15th Pre-Production Wolseley in June 1974
Last Ambassador down the line in November 1983, Austin Ambassador VDP

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 19/06

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Jun 20, 2018 5:37 pm

It's very old, for a camera, Fujifilm Finepix XP30 from about 2011. Pretty robust camera, all told, but its showing its age after several years of near constant use and abuse. I should really replace it but since it still works 99% of the time, I've been holding off getting a new one.

Little job, every day. Welding not a thing I can deal with today, not in the right headspace for it, so let's see if we can get that bump stop bonded back together. It fell off when we had the suspension apart ages ago and I hadn't found anything that would bond it back on reliably. The pressure of the system does hold the rubber in place so it's not going to go anywhere even if it isn't glued. Anyway, first thing is off with the wheel trim, then the wheel, then up on stands to access the schrader valve. After several hundred miles of driving about I'm happy to report no issues. Having the Churchill pump makes this a super fast job. Once depressurised, unclip the bottom of the rebound strap so the trailing arm can be pushed down just enough to get the bump stop rubber back in.

Image20180620-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Flash makes it all look quite rusty under there, which it isn't. Flash is weird like that. Easy job at least. Popped the wheel back on, car on the floor, suspension reinflated and all done.

Image20180620-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The ride is improved slightly and the occasional knock from the rear end is gone, which isn't really a big surprise given that the displacer is now cushioned rather than resting on metal.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 20/06 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:01 pm

Let's have an update. The recent hot weather, which I'm lead to believe is something called 'Summer', has put paid to me wanting to don protective gear and do welding. Especially so, in fact, because the unit has this amazing property where on a hot day it's hotter inside and on a cold day it's colder inside. Probably something to do with it being an ex-RAF hanger with no insulation. Anyway, I digress.

All has been running fairly smoothly, with a couple of niggles. The dieseling/running-on problem I had seems to have been down to the fuel mix being a tiny bit lean and knackered spark plugs, having sorted out both these things I appear to have fixed that problem, even in the really hot weather we've been having. Then, a little while ago the fuel gauge wouldn't read more than 7/8ths full which led to me overfilling the tank and spilling petrol all down the side of the car because I was sure it should take more fuel. More recently, the fuel gauge started going up and down at random and yesterday it stopped working altogether. Today I determined to start fault finding and naturally the fuel gauge was working again, sort of. There's 3/4 of a tank of fuel in the car at the moment but the gauge read here.
Image20180701-11 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It bobbed up and down a bit when idling, I turned it off, had a bit of a think of what I might check without removing the dashboard, and then went back to it. The gauge then decided it wanted to work normally, but only up to half tank. I suspect it's a faulty gauge or voltage regulator. both known issues on these, and I've already replaced the regulator once when the previous one failed randomly. It's a dash out job to investigate and since I want to refinish the dashboard to match the interior properly, I decided to order some veneer and have a go at doing that rather than painting it. I've never done veneer work before but the theory seems simple enough if I take my time and given the simple flat shape of the dashboard, I'm hoping it doesn't give me too much grief to spruce up. If it does give me too much grief I've always got my fallback option of paint.

The other irritation was discovering the occasional knocking noise is actually a failed waterpump bearing, on a waterpump that's not more than 6 years old since it was one of the first things I replaced when I got the car. Fortunately, they're not too difficult to get hold of and a new one was delivered for a total cost of £15. I've not fitted it yet because it's been too darned hot and it's difficult to swear at annoying bolts when there's sweat running into your eyes. I've been keeping an eye on leaks too, and it wouldn't be a BL product if it didn't leave its moniker everywhere it stopped. That said, it's a very small moniker these days, so I'm just choosing to live with it and deal with bigger problems.
Image20180701-10 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

The summer has been less kind on the rear window stickers, which it is steadily destroying. The Leyland Princess one hasn't been in there very long, the Autoshite one a few years and is now suitably foxed, and the RR one has been in there pretty much since 2012 and appears to be slowly catching fire.
Image20180701-09 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180701-08 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It's also been seriously dusty here lately. Car seems to need washing daily, but nobody has time for that. Look at the state of this.
Image20180701-07 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

So mostly all I've been doing is driving the car and using it as a car. I'm enjoying it too. It's been a little while, so here's where we are with the bodywork and paint. I actually repainted the rear driver's side wing today when the weather had cooled down a bit and it turned out okay, even though there's welding work still needed on that panel. Having more of the car in the correct colours makes the work to do seem much less daunting and I'm looking forward to cracking on with the welding and last bits of paint once the weather has cooled down a little bit.

Image20180701-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180701-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180701-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180701-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180701-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Image20180701-06 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Might do the water pump tomorrow, we'll see how I get on.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 01/07 Update

Post by Vulgalour » Tue Jul 03, 2018 5:47 pm

Since the mercury has dropped a little, let's ignore the fuel gauge which has gone back to not working, and the water pump which is working well enough, and do some welding instead. Not much, mind, it's hot in the overalls.

Image20180703-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

That's the big patch done. There's just the bits on the side and the corner, most of which it looks like I can salvage from the orange door on the car, and then it's the much simpler job of repairing the outer skin.

Image20180703-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I might have that done this week since the first week of the month is always a bit quieter with work and even if the temperatures stay high, I should at least be able to plod through these last repairs. When the door is welded up I'll finally be able to get it in paint and get the front wing sorted too. It's not going to be a lot of fun to do the alignment but once done it shouldn't need doing again for a long time.

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Re: 1980 Princess 2 1.7 HL - 03/07 Welding

Post by Vulgalour » Wed Jul 04, 2018 5:54 pm

It was lovely and cool when I started today, soon became unbearable at the unit as the day went on. Still, got some more welding done and very nearly finished one side of the door. The rusty bits were very rusty but also very localised so it was surprisingly easy to cut back to good steel. This was really the most solid bit that I removed, which is the bit just under the door latch.

Image20180704-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

I'd taken the worst of the spare doors I'd got in with me, a rear passenger door. It was too far gone to repair, really, but ideal for offering donor sections once it was stripped down. I've saved all the fixings, latches, and glass because they're they sort of bits that are very difficult to source and always useful to have as insurance against future mishaps. The door skin isn't much use as a door skin due to lots of dents and rust, but it is a really large piece of useful steel. It also looks like the inner frame has useful shapes to help with the remaining door repairs too.

Image20180704-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

It took one of the pressings from the rear door to replace the rusted out section on the front door as it was exactly the same. I also took a folded edge from the inside frame of the spare door to repair the rotted out different edge on the door I'm repairing which saved me quite a bit of time fabricating the shape neatly. The welds are fresh from the gun, they'll look better once I've given them a tickle with the flapwheel and splashed a bit of paint about.

Image20180704-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to finish off the corner of the inner frame and maybe even finish off the outer skin. Fuel guage today has read empty, just under the red, quarter gauge, in the red, half gauge (for about a second), and just peeking up out of the red. I'm looking forward to pulling the dashboard this time because the new veneer has arrived and I have all the tools, glue, and varnish needed to re-veneer. I've never done veneer work before so it'll be interesting to see the theory put into practice, it looks straightforward enough, it's a lot like wallpapering and I'm pretty good at that.

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