www.leylandprincess.co.uk
BUYERS GUIDE
Buying any used car is a daunting task, but buying a
classic that may be well over thirty years old doesn’t necessarily have to be
any more complicated. If you are about to view a Princess it may be wise to
take a few things with you, such as something to lay on for getting
underneath, a pair of ramps or a jack, a torch, and a small hammer for
tapping the underside of the car.
Bodywork.
Starting at the front, check for rusting at the air
intake behind the front number plate on Princesses, put your hand in there
and press gently, if there’s any flexing or crunching then it has rotted,
especially check the areas where the number plate bracket bolts to the
valance, which can be awkward to repair. The Ambassadors frontal styling has
fewer rust traps and most damage is caused by stone chips, so check the front
valance for corrosion. Also check the bottom of the front wings ahead of the
front wheels, as these rot easily, repairs can be made here if the rest of
the wing is good, but if the car’s got rusty wheel arches then it may be
better to replace the whole wing. Wings are available but can be expensive.
On Ambassadors, look at the roof above the rear quarter
glass, this area can rust severely and is difficult to repair. Usually, cars
this bad are ready for scrap; the roof is a major structural area of the car.
Look also for signs of repair to the A pillar, which can also corrode severely
if not attended to. As a rule, cars this bad are best avoided, as they will
require skilled repair work.
Princess bumpers get tatty with age and were prone to
rust even when new, but they are not difficult to obtain. Ambassador bumpers
are made of plastic and usually show signs of age and have scrapes on them,
check carefully as these are not so easy to obtain.
Look along the bottom seams and on the corners of all of
the doors, which rust from the inside out, some cars may well have had
repairs in these areas at some point. Whilst checking the doors, check the
door hinge pins by grabbing the back edge of the door and lifting, any
movement means the door hinge pins are loose and can be tapped back into
place. Also, look along the bottom of the boot lid as this also rusts from
the inside out, and check for dings in the boot lid as this often gets
parking damage. Ambassadors have a large and heavy rear tailgate, which is supported
by two gas struts that support it when open – check that they still work.
Look along the full length of the sills, mainly at the
bottom of the front wing and at the back where the sill meets the inside of
the rear wheel arch, prod it and any maladies here will be easy to find.
Expect to find evidence of welding here, but make sure it hasn’t been bodged
with newspaper and filler. Note that there should be a gap between the bottom
of the sill and the pivot arm bush mounting point (see picture – you can see
the grass through the gap.)
The chrome wheel arch trims are becoming very difficult
to source, so look at all four carefully for dings or scrapes, later Princess
and Ambassador’s didn’t have these fitted. Also check the condition of the
gutter rail trim, which is made of plastic, this is also difficult to
replace.
Check the condition of the vinyl quarter panels, and
vinyl roof on Princess HLS models. They are either brown or black, the black roof
coverings are much more hardwearing than the brown. The brown vinyl (the
vinyl pattern, by the way, is called Leyland grain) is particularly
vulnerable and splits with age.
DIY replacement is possible (I’ve done it myself), but a
professional replacement will cost around £200 and for best results the
windscreen will have to come out. And if that cracks you may have difficulty
finding a replacement, add to that removing the plastic trim around the
screen on HLS models, which usually breaks upon removal, and the whole
process can be a daunting task. Earlier pre-1978 Princess HLSs used stainless
steel screen trim and can be reused if removed carefully. The rear screen
needn’t be disturbed.
Whilst on the outside, have a look at the wheels, if
alloy wheels are fitted check for corrosion and flaking paint, and make sure
all four black plastic wheel centres are present as these are almost
impossible to get hold of now. Tyres should be 185/70/14 on all models, even
alloy wheeled cars.
Interior.
Princess interiors are hard wearing, especially in HLS
trim, but look for a sagging drivers seat and check that the seat adjustment
mechanism operates properly. On HL models the top of the rear backrest can
fade and disintegrate; especially vulnerable are lighter colours, and later
facelifted Princess cars and Ambassadors seem to suffer particularly.
From the drivers seat, check the condition of the
leather steering wheel on Princesses, and look for cracks on the plastic
moulded dashboard on all models, also look at the wooden dash insert for
chipped varnish (especially around the radio aperture) and fading. Door
panels and seats are relatively easy to come by, though you may have to wait
for the right colour. Check the roof lining for signs of sagging and damage.
Pull back the carpet on both sides of the front foot
well and feel for any wet or dampness here, there’s a large sponge-like sound
deadening pad below the carpet which absorbs water very well, press on it and
see if it squelches. If it is wet then it is likely that the windscreen
rubber has perished and water is getting in. Windscreen rubbers, once again
are very difficult to find, so make sure it’s a good one.
Under The Bonnet.
On all engines, check for a smokey exhaust - a puff on
start up is fine but not under acceleration or when idling, and listen out
for rumbling bearings and rattly tappets, the latter are only adjustable on
1800 engines. Of all the engines, the 2200 6-cylinder’s are the most fragile,
so check for regular servicing.
O-Series 1700 and 2000cc engines are very sturdy and
will go on for over 100,000 miles if well maintained, though these engines
have a timing belt so make sure it’s been replaced every 48,000 miles if in
doubt, renew it – it’s very easy to replace on these.
All engines are fairly coarse in operation, except the
2200 six-cylinder which should be super smooth and quiet, the four-cylinder
car’s tend to transmit vibration into the passenger compartment, especially
at idle, but make sure the idle is smooth and even without any ‘hunting’ up
and down. All Wedges will run
perfectly well on unleaded fuel with a slight adjustment to the timing.
Check the radiator for leaks and make sure it has
anti-freeze mixed coolant and not rust coloured water, which is a sign of a
neglected car. Each engine size has a different radiator, though the O-Series
1700 and 2000 share the same design.
Transmission.
All Wedges use the same Borg-Warner 35 three-speed
automatic gearbox, which is a sturdy and reliable unit if properly maintained.
Regular fluid changes are essential – the fluid should be a light pink
colour. Upon engaging gear at standstill there should be a slight jolt. Gear
changes should be smooth and jerk free, drive the car at a moderate pace and
it should change up through all 3 gears before you reach 30mph. Press hard on
the accelerator at around 30mph and it should kick down into second
immediately. Odd gear change patterns can sometimes be traced to an
incorrectly adjusted kick-down cable; adjustment can be accessed just below
the carburettor(s).
The four-speed manual gearbox is also a strong unit but
first gear can be particularly awkward to engage – this is normal, though
this can sometimes be caused by a worn clutch or slave cylinder. All gears
have a notchy action and can be frustrating in use and there is a slight
whine present in all gears.
Brakes.
Chunky four-pot callipers at the front and big drums at the rear
easily haul the Wedge to a stop. The brake pedal should be firm with no
sponginess. Check for seized pistons on the callipers and also check the
flexible brake pipes to the callipers (2 per side) as these perish with age
and can be quite expensive to replace. Look also for leaking wheel cylinders
on the rear drums. Repair kits for both front and rear brakes are easily
obtainable.
Driveshafts.
As with all front wheel drive cars, check the CV boots for splits
then drive the car on full lock left and right listening for ‘clicking,’
which means the outer CV joints are worn.
Steering & Suspension.
All Wedges are fitted with the Hydragas suspension
system. A Princess or Ambassador sagging on one side may just mean that the
suspension needs pumping up. The ride height should be 14.5” from the wheel
centre up to the bottom centre of the wheel arch. Most garages have a
Hydragas suspension pump; ask around your local garages to check
availability, but it may be worth investing in your own pump. Budget around
£100 for a second-hand pump.
If it won’t respond to pumping, or drops again after a
few days, then the displacer will need replacing. Front displacers are
increasingly hard to come by and when they do crop up they’re not cheap -
£100 is the going rate at the time of writing. Rear displacers are easier to
source, but corrosion on the pivot arm can make removal of the old unit very
difficult.
Check the Hydragas interconnecting hoses for signs of
perishing as these can cause fluid to leak, though there may not be any sign
of leaking as the Hydragas fluid evaporates.
Only 2200 Princess and HLS/VP Ambassador models were
fitted with power steering as standard and it was an option on all other
models. The non-assisted steering is very heavy, especially when parking, but
once on the move it’s not so bad but by modern standards, it’s bloody hard
work! Power steering can be retro fitted quite easily and new old stock racks
are very cheap to buy, but it’s worth hunting down a car with PAS.
Electrics.
Very basic 12-volt negative earth system with only 8
main fuses, which are located in the engine compartment on the driver’s side
bulkhead on Princesses. Ambassadors have a more complex wiring system and its
fuse box is located behind a removable panel on the driver’s side of the
dashboard. Some Ambassador’s have central locking and electric windows so
check these all work. Most faults are due to corroded fuses or connections.
Overall.
The Princess and Ambassador is a straightforward design
and should pose no real problems for the owner who isn’t afraid to pick up a
spanner and have a go. Just buy the best you can afford and keep it properly
maintained, and remember that the overall condition of a car is more
important than the mileage.
Kevin Davis.
This page updated 27th April 2008.
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