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BUYERS
GUIDE
Buying any
used car is a daunting task, but buying a classic that may be well over
thirty years old doesn’t necessarily have to be any more complicated. If you
are about to view a Princess it may be wise to take a few things with you,
such as something to lay on for getting underneath, a pair of ramps or a jack,
a torch, and a small hammer for tapping the underside of the car.
Bodywork.
 Starting at
the front, check for rusting at the air intake behind the front number plate
on Princesses, put your hand in there and press gently, if there’s any
flexing or crunching then it has rotted, especially check the areas where the
number plate bracket bolts to the valance, which can be awkward to repair.
The Ambassadors frontal styling has fewer rust traps and most damage is
caused by stone chips, so check the front valance for corrosion. Also check
the bottom of the front wings ahead of the front wheels, as these rot easily,
repairs can be made here if the rest of the wing is good, but if the car’s
got rusty wheel arches then it may be better to replace the whole wing. Wings
are available but can be expensive. On Ambassadors, look at  the roof
above the rear quarter glass, this area can rust severely and is difficult to
repair. Usually, cars this bad are ready for scrap; the roof is a major
structural area of the car. Look also for  signs of
repair to the A pillar, which can also corrode severely if not attended to. As
a rule, cars this bad are best avoided, as they will require skilled repair
work.
Princess
bumpers get tatty with age and were prone to rust even when new, but they are
not difficult to obtain. Ambassador bumpers are made of plastic and usually
show signs of age and have scrapes on them, check carefully as these are not
so easy to obtain.
 Look along
the bottom seams and on the corners of all of the doors, which rust from the
inside out, some cars may well have had repairs in these areas at some point.
Whilst  checking the
doors, check the door hinge pins by grabbing the back edge of the door and
lifting, any movement means the door hinge pins are loose and can be tapped
back into place. Also, look along the bottom of the boot lid as this also
rusts from the inside out, and check for dings in the boot lid as this often
gets parking damage. Ambassadors have a large and heavy rear tailgate, which
is supported by two gas struts that support it when open – check that they
still work.
 Look along
the full length of the sills, mainly at the bottom of the front wing and at
the back where the sill meets the inside of the rear wheel arch, prod it and
any maladies here will be easy to find. Expect to find evidence of welding
here, but make sure it hasn’t been bodged with newspaper and filler. Note
that there should be a gap between the bottom of the sill and the pivot arm
bush mounting point (see picture – you can see the grass through the gap.)
The chrome
wheel arch trims are becoming very difficult to source, so look at all four
carefully for dings or scrapes,  later
Princess and Ambassador’s didn’t have these fitted. Also check the condition
of the gutter rail trim, which is made of plastic, this is also difficult to
replace. Whilst there, check the condition of the vinyl quarter panels, and
vinyl roof on Princess HLS models. They are either brown or black, the black
roof coverings are much more hardwearing than the brown. The brown vinyl (the
vinyl pattern, by the way, is called Leyland grain) is particularly
vulnerable and splits with age.
 DIY
replacement is possible (I’ve done it myself), but a professional replacement
will cost around £200 and for best results the windscreen will have to come
out. And if that cracks you may have difficulty finding a replacement, add to
that removing the plastic trim around the screen on HLS models, which usually
breaks upon removal, and the whole process can be a daunting task. Earlier
pre-1978 Princess HLSs used stainless steel screen trim and can be reused if
removed carefully. The rear screen needn’t be disturbed.
Whilst on the
outside, have a look at the wheels, if alloy wheels are fitted check for
corrosion and flaking paint, and make sure all four black plastic wheel
centres are present as these are almost impossible to get hold of now. Tyres
should be 185/70/14 on all models, even alloy wheeled cars.
Interior.
 Princess
interiors are hard wearing, especially in HLS trim, but look for a sagging
drivers seat and check that the seat adjustment mechanism operates properly.
On HL models the top of the rear backrest can fade and disintegrate;
especially vulnerable are lighter colours, and later facelifted Princess cars
and Ambassadors seem to suffer particularly.
From the
drivers seat, check the condition of the leather steering wheel on Princesses,
and look for cracks on the plastic moulded dashboard on all models, also look
at the wooden dash insert for chipped varnish (especially around the radio
aperture) and fading. Door panels and seats are relatively easy to come by,
though you may have to wait for the right colour. Check the roof lining for
signs of sagging and damage.
Pull back the
carpet on both sides of the front foot well and feel for any wet or dampness
here, there’s a large sponge-like sound deadening pad below the carpet which
absorbs water very well, press on it and see if it squelches. If it is wet
then it is likely that the windscreen rubber has perished and water is
getting in. Windscreen rubbers, once again are very difficult to find, so
make sure it’s a good one.
Under The
Bonnet.
 On all
engines, check for a smokey exhaust - a puff on start up is fine but not
under acceleration or when idling, and listen out for rumbling bearings and
rattly tappets, the latter are only adjustable on 1800 engines. Of all the
engines, the 2200 6-cylinder’s are the most fragile, so check for regular
servicing.
O-Series 1700
and 2000cc engines are very sturdy and will go on for over 100,000 miles if
well maintained, though these engines have a timing belt so make sure it’s
been replaced every 48,000 miles if in doubt, renew it – it’s very easy to
replace on these.
All engines
are fairly coarse in operation, except the 2200 six-cylinder which should be
super smooth and quiet, the four-cylinder car’s tend to transmit vibration
into the passenger compartment, especially at idle, but make sure the idle is
smooth and even without any ‘hunting’ up and down. All Wedges will run perfectly well on unleaded fuel with a
slight adjustment to the timing.
Check the
radiator for leaks and make sure it has anti-freeze mixed coolant and not
rust coloured water, which is a sign of a neglected car. Each engine size has
a different radiator, though the O-Series 1700 and 2000 share the same design.
Transmission.
All Wedges
use the same Borg-Warner 35 three-speed automatic gearbox, which is a sturdy
and reliable unit if properly maintained. Regular fluid changes are essential
– the fluid should be a light pink colour. Upon engaging gear at standstill
there should be a slight jolt. Gear changes should be smooth and jerk free,
drive the car at a moderate pace and it should change up through all 3 gears
before you reach 30mph. Press hard on the accelerator at around 30mph and it
should kick down into second immediately. Odd gear change patterns can
sometimes be traced to an incorrectly adjusted kick-down cable; adjustment
can be accessed just below the carburettor(s).
The four-speed
manual gearbox is also a strong unit but first gear can be particularly
awkward to engage – this is normal, though this can sometimes be caused by a
worn clutch or slave cylinder. All gears have a notchy action and can be
frustrating in use and there is a slight whine present in all gears.
Brakes.
Chunky four-pot callipers at the front and big drums at
the rear easily haul the Wedge to a stop. The brake pedal should be firm with
no sponginess. Check for seized pistons on the callipers and also check the
flexible brake pipes to the callipers (2 per side) as these perish with age
and can be quite expensive to replace. Look also for leaking wheel cylinders
on the rear drums. Repair kits for both front and rear brakes are easily
obtainable.
Driveshafts.
As with all front wheel drive cars, check the CV boots
for splits then drive the car on full lock left and right listening for
‘clicking,’ which means the outer CV joints are worn.
Steering &
Suspension.
All Wedges
are fitted with the Hydragas suspension system. A Princess or Ambassador sagging
on one side may just mean that the suspension needs pumping up. The ride
height should be 14.5” from the wheel centre up to the bottom centre of the
wheel arch. Most garages have a Hydragas suspension pump; ask around your
local garages to check availability, but it may be worth investing in your own
pump. Budget around £100 for a second-hand pump.
If it won’t
respond to pumping, or drops again after a few days, then the displacer will
need replacing. Front displacers are increasingly hard to come by and when
they do crop up they’re not cheap - £100 is the going rate at the time of
writing. Rear displacers are easier to source, but corrosion on the pivot arm
can make removal of the old unit very difficult.
Check the
Hydragas interconnecting hoses for signs of perishing as these can cause
fluid to leak, though there may not be any sign of leaking as the Hydragas
fluid evaporates.
Only 2200
Princess and HLS/VP Ambassador models were fitted with power steering as
standard and it was an option on all other models. The non-assisted steering is
very heavy, especially when parking, but once on the move it’s not so bad but
by modern standards, it’s bloody hard work! Power steering can be retro
fitted quite easily and new old stock racks are very cheap to buy, but it’s
worth hunting down a car with PAS.
Electrics.
Very basic
12-volt negative earth system with only 8 main fuses, which are located in
the engine compartment on the driver’s side bulkhead on Princesses.
Ambassadors have a more complex wiring system and its fuse box is located
behind a removable panel on the driver’s side of the dashboard. Some
Ambassador’s have central locking and electric windows so check these all
work. Most faults are due to corroded fuses or connections.
Overall.
The Princess
and Ambassador is a straightforward design and should pose no real problems
for the owner who isn’t afraid to pick up a spanner and have a go. Just buy
the best you can afford and keep it properly maintained, and remember that
the overall condition of a car is more important than the mileage.
Kevin Davis.
This page
updated 27th April 2008.
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